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The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis, composed of dead keratinocytes, approximately 10-15 layers thick, with each layer about 0.02mm in thickness. Normally, as keratinocytes differentiate and migrate upward, the outermost layer of corneocytes gradually sheds.
However, factors like aging, external stressors, and UV exposure can slow down skin turnover, leading to abnormal shedding or renewal of the stratum corneum. This can result in dull, rough, lackluster skin and hinder the absorption of subsequent skincare products. Acid-containing cosmetics effectively exfoliate by dissolving the protein connections between corneocytes, making shedding easier. This process can improve pore blockages and metabolize some melanin in the stratum corneum, leaving the skin looking brighter and smoother.
Chemical exfoliation primarily utilizes acids and cationic surfactants, including:
Alpha-hydroxy acids (often found in fruits like lemons and apples, commonly known as fruit acids)
Beta-hydroxy acids (salicylic acid)